Hong Kong Palace Museum | A Movable Feast: The Culture of Food and Drink in China

8000. Exhibition Introduction

Food culture encompasses the sourcing and utilisation of ingredients, the preparation and processing of food, and the consumption of food as well as the customs, etiquette, and ideologies developed around eating and drinking. It touches nearly every aspect of our material and spiritual life. According to the anthropological archaeologist Kwang-chih Chang, “one of the best ways of getting to a culture’s heart would be through its stomach.”

This exhibition invites visitors to enjoy a multicourse feast spanning five thousand years of Chinese history. The exhibits mainly come from The Palace Museum and the Hong Kong Palace Museum. The British Museum, the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, the Cleveland Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Museum of Art, and the Hong Kong Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware have also provided a number of loans. The Robert Chang Art Education Charitable Foundation is the exhibition’s Supporting Sponsor.

8001. Bi (spoon) with kui-dragon motif

Doesn’t this artefact resemble the spoons we use in our daily lives? In fact, the tradition of using spoons in China dates back over 7,000 years. Back then, spoons were called “bi” and were primarily made from animal bones. The main purpose of the bi was to stir and flip food while cooking and to scoop food from cooking vessels into serving dishes. This exhibit is a bi from the Western Zhou period, adorned with a kui-dragon motif and made of bronze. Unlike modern spoons, it features a pointed, leaf-like shape and a wide, flat handle.

8002. Model of a brazier with cicadas

Besides being a modern culinary favourite, barbecue was also a popular cooking method during the Han dynasty, primarily used for grilling meat on skewers.

This model of a brazier features cicadas from that period. The four sides of the brazier slant inward, with breathable holes arranged vertically and horizontally at the bottom. Its surface is decorated with patterns of four-footed beasts and triangular geometric designs, while the four legs are adorned with animal motifs. Notably, two skewers of cicadas rest atop the brazier, reflecting the practice of eating cicadas at that time. This exhibit is a type of burial object from the Han dynasty, fired with a low-temperature lead glaze that has a striking colour. The green glaze has a slight silvery sheen, a result of erosion from the high lead content over time.

8003. Stemmed cup

Does this stemmed cup remind you of modern wine glasses? This type of vessel originated in the Mediterranean region and was introduced to China before the Tang dynasty. This exhibit is an example of one such stemmed cup from the Tang dynasty. The design of most golden and silver stemmed cups from the Tang dynasty was likely influenced by Byzantine vessels, characterised by a smaller diameter at the mouth. These cups could be used with ewers that have handles.

8004. Footed platter with mythical beasts amid grapevines

This three-legged platter from the Tang dynasty was adorned with a design of mythical beasts amid grapevines and was made with gilt silver techniques. Scenes from banquets appear in Tang-dynasty murals in Dunhuang and other tombs, often featuring large footed platters that are also known as yapan (a platter on feet; literally translated as “platter with teeth”). At that time, a flat, large foreign flatbread called hubing was very popular, leading to the rise of this new type of large platter. In addition to flatbread, yapan could also hold fruits, desserts known as sushan (a shaved ice-like dessert), or stacked pastries.

To accommodate the practice of sitting on the floor, most platters had multiple feet at the bottom. Some were used for holding items, while others supported other vessels. The yapan retained both functions. In the murals of Tang dynasty tombs, these three-legged platters not only supported other vessels but also enhanced the lavishness of banquets by holding piles of food. In the murals of Princess Fangling’s tomb from the Tang dynasty, a female attendant is depicted holding a footed platter by its “feet”, demonstrating the multiple uses of these “feet”.

8005. Portable box with dragons amid waves

In ancient times, a portable box was a vessel used at excursions, designed for the convenience of bringing food, utensils, and tea sets outdoors for picnics. This particular box dates back to the Qianlong period of the Qing dynasty and features cloud and dragon patterns created by carving into the red lacquer. It contains drawers of various sizes for storing teapots, teacups, tea canisters, and tea trays, and the top is equipped with a handle for easy transport. The overall design not only eliminates the hassle of assembling individual stacked drawers but also prevents items from scattering during travel, making it easier for users to pull items out.

Although portable boxes were quite common during the Ming and Qing dynasties, they appeared as early as the Song dynasty, primarily used for holding food and drink while travelling. Therefore, the design and refinement of ancient portable boxes reflect the continuous pursuit of aesthetics and taste by ancient Chinese people.

8006. Compartmented box with floral patterns

During the Lunar New Year, Chinese families typically prepare a compartmented box filled with various sweet and savoury snacks, symbolising the gathering of good luck and blessings for a smooth year ahead. Originally, it was called a cuanhe, which means assemblage.

Originating in the Lingnan region during the Western Han dynasty (206 BC – 9 AD), the compartmented box is a type of food vessel consisting of multiple small compartments. Over time, it became popular across the nation and even in neighbouring countries, evolving into designs made from various materials and in different styles. The red compartmented box here in the display case is from the Qing dynasty, adorned with traditional Chinese patterns. It features a lid with glass inlay and small jade trays, showcasing its exquisite craftsmanship.

Since the late Ming dynasty, mass tourism flourished, and people from all social classes began taking compartmented boxes on their travels, leading to the emergence of speciality stores that sold them. By exploring the history, design, and function of this type of box, we can understand how outings in ancient times significantly influenced Chinese culinary culture.

8007. Ewer with hunting scene

Today, an ewer with a handle is a common sight in daily life. In fact, this type of ewer appeared in China as early as the Tang dynasty (618–907), and like this example, featured a hunting scene. Since this ewer type originated from Central and Western Asia, it was referred to as huping, meaning “foreign ewer”, when it was introduced to China.

The term “zhenzhuo”, commonly used today to mean “to deliberate”, originally referred to the traditional way of drinking before the Tang dynasty. A ladle would be used to scoop and distribute drinks into vessels with wide mouths. With the introduction of huping, a series of new pottery types with handles and spouts emerged, allowing drinks to be poured into narrow-mouthed wine cups. This type of ewer with a handle, and the method of pouring liquids, gained popularity and eventually replaced the original practice of serving wine with a ladle.

8008. Quatrefoil stemmed cup

The term “jin poluo” refers to a golden drinking vessel named poluo, and the term is familiar to many people in Hong Kong because it is often used to describe children who are greatly cherished by their parents. However, poluo was already in use in ancient literature, likely as a homophonic translation of a foreign word. Scholars have various opinions regarding its origin: one theory suggests it came from an Iranian language, while another argues it originated from Sogdian. Recently, discussions have indicated a possible connection to the Tibetan language as well.

Historical documents and literary works confirm that poluo is often associated with foreign people and their customs, particularly in contexts related to feasts. For example, the Tang dynasty poet Li Bai mentioned using a gold poluo to hold grape wine in his poem “Dui jiu” (Take Wine). Some scholars speculate that poluo may refer to the same type of vessel as the curved footed cup displayed here, which originated in the Sasanian Empire (present-day Iran) in the fifth century and was used in rituals for noble banquets.

There is still no definitive conclusion regarding what poluo specifically refers to. Nonetheless, the term not only reflects the profound historical influence of foreign drinking vessels and their terminology in China, but also indirectly illustrates the significant impact of cultural exchange on Chinese culinary traditions.