Hong Kong Palace Museum

Publication Audio guide

“Cartier and Women” is the first major exhibition that foregrounds women’s role and presence in the history of Cartier. Featuring about three hundred stunning items of Cartier jewellery, timepieces, precious objects, and archival records from the nineteenth century to the present day, the exhibition celebrates women’s lifestyles, creativity, and influence. Through these exquisite works and fascinating stories, the exhibition’s four thematic sections explore the close relationship between women, jewellery, and fashion. This exhibition also highlights the profound impact of art from China and other parts of the world on Cartier, a testament to the Museum’s mission to facilitate dialogue among world civilisations.

This exhibition is organised by the Hong Kong Palace Museum with the support of Cartier. The loans are generously provided by the Cartier Collection and other collectors and collections.

Chinese Vanity Case
Cartier Paris, 1928
Gold, platinum, mother-of-pearl, coral, sapphires, turquoise, onyx, aventurine, jade, emerald matrix, emeralds, diamonds, and black enamel
Cartier Collection
Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier © Cartier

Highlighted objects

Tiara

Cartier Paris, 1907
Platinum, diamonds, and natural pearls
Special order
Cartier Collection
Provenance: Princess Marie Bonaparte (1882–1962).
Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier © Cartier

According to the Cartier Archives, this tiara was originally a comb to be placed at the back of the head, and it could also be worn as a bandeau. It was part of Princess Marie Bonaparte’s trousseau for her wedding to Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907. Its olive branch motif is a nod to Prince George’s family’s Greek heritage. It was later transformed into a tiara.

Bib necklace

Cartier Paris, 1947
Gold, platinum, diamonds, amethysts, and turquoise
Special order
Cartier Collection
Provenance: Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986).
Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier © Cartier

This necklace was a special order from the Duke of Windsor (1894–1972), who supplied all the gems except the turquoises, and the Duchess wore it when the couple attended a charity ball in Versailles in 1953. Adoring the amethyst and turquoise combination, the Duchess ordered additional pieces made from these gemstones.

Panther clip brooch

Cartier Paris, 1949
Platinum, white gold, diamonds, and sapphires
Cartier Collection
Provenance: Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986).
Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier © Cartier

Accessories with motifs of predatory beasts, like the panther, were previously unimaginable for high-society women. Cartier’s Creative Director Jeanne Toussaint (1887–1976) was credited with creatively turning the panther into an emblem of women’s strong personalities and rising status. This brooch represents the animal in its entirety and was the second three-dimensional panther piece Cartier designed for the Duchess of Windsor after she acquired the first in 1948. Poised and powerful, the panther mounting on the striking sapphire gives the brooch full volume. This brooch became an iconic piece for both the Duchess and Cartier.

Chinese vanity case

Cartier Paris, 1928
Gold, platinum, mother-of-pearl, coral, sapphires, turquoise, onyx, aventurine, jade, emerald matrix, emeralds, diamonds, and black enamel
Cartier Collection
Nils Herrmann, Collection Cartier © Cartier

The garden scene with a lady on the inlaid plaque is modelled upon a Chinese famille verte porcelain plate produced during the Qing Kangxi period (1662–1722), which was part of Louis Cartier's (1875–1942) personal collection. Fitted with a mirror, the vanity case has a lipstick holder at the centre and two lidded powder compartments.

Engagement ring

Cartier Paris, 1956
Platinum and diamonds
Monaco Princely Palace Collection
Provenance: Princess Grace of Monaco (1929–1982).
Vincent Wulveryck, Monaco Princely Palace Collection
© Cartier

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Cartier and Women